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This page has information on how to do things for slot car racing tech inspections, and many other interesting things.
| Wiring Diagram for Power | ||
|---|---|---|
| Speed Diagram for Marshall Field | ||
by: George Vriese
"The diagram above shows the wiring for just a single lane. It can easily be scaled to fit the needs of any track. For instance, if the track has two lanes with a single power source duplicate the diagram and connect the Power Supply (+) wires to the common power supply (+) terminal and the Power Supply (-) wires to the common power supply (-) terminal. For tracks with individual power supplies for each lane connect the Power Supply (+) and Power Supply (-) wires for each lane to the power supply for that lane."
Running Lights
provided by George Vriese
The schematic shows a simple circuit to add brake lights to a slot car. When the controller VR1 supplies power from V1 to motor M1 capacitor C1 is charged through resistor R1 and diode D1. Once the controller is released and (optionally) the brake switch K1 (in the controller) is engaged the voltage across the motor drops. Once this voltage is sufficiently below the capacitor charged voltage the capacitor discharges through resistor R2 and LED's D2 and D3. Thus the brake lights come on.
NOTE : Make sure the capacitor voltage is greater than the track voltage.
SCX Light Protection and Enhancement
Speed Diagram for Marshall Field:
Marshall Field Ave Lap Length = 77' |
|||
77. Feet |
0.467 miles |
||
Time (sec) |
sMPH |
MPH |
|
4 |
420 |
13.13 |
|
4.25 |
395 |
12.35 |
|
4.5 |
373 |
11.67 |
|
4.75 |
354 |
11.05 |
|
5 |
336 |
10.50 |
|
5.25 |
320 |
10.00 |
|
5.5 |
305 |
9.55 |
|
5.75 |
292 |
9.13 |
|
6 |
280 |
8.75 |
|
6.25 |
269 |
8.40 |
|
6.5 |
258 |
8.08 |
|
6.75 |
249 |
7.78 |
|
7 |
240 |
7.50 |
|
7.25 |
232 |
7.24 |
|
7.5 |
224 |
7.00 |
|
7.75 |
217 |
6.77 |
|
8 |
210 |
6.56 |
|
8.25 |
204 |
6.36 |
|
8.5 |
198 |
6.18 |
|
8.75 |
192 |
6.00 |
|
9 |
187 |
5.83 |
|
9.25 |
182 |
5.68 |
|
9.5 |
177 |
5.53 |
|
9.75 |
172 |
5.38 |
|
10 |
168 |
5.25 |
|
Now you can know how fast your really going!
| Controllers You Can Use | |||
|---|---|---|---|
Controllers: You are allowed to use your own controllers. If you choose not too, we provide equal 25 ohm Para controllers for each lane. But it is understandable that racers will feel more comfortable with their own controllers. They have to have either alligator clips connectors or banana clip type connectors.
Tech Inspection for Slot.it Cars
1. All racecars will need to be tech inspected before being allowed to race and impounded for the duration of the race. You are not allowed to remove the car from impound except to repair a broken car. You cannot remove a car from impound to maintenance it. If your car is removed from impound for repairs or pulled off the track for repairs, and thus is not put in impound, then you will have to have it tech inspected again to qualify it to race and then have it impounded.
2. Two racers each night will be assigned on a rotating basis to be tech inspectors for the evening’s race. The tech inspectors will be assigned the night of the race. These tech inspectors will be responsible for tech inspecting the cars to make sure they are legal to run and controlling the impounding of the cars.
3. The nightly race will be set up for 2 rounds of racing. You will be able to go through all 4 lanes twice. The total amount of laps will be your grand total to determine winners. Each heat will be 2.5 minutes long with a 90 second break between the heats and the computer will control this. The start of the 2 nd round will have a new race order randomly chosen. The computer clock will not be turned off except for track problems only. So, you will have 90 seconds to move your car to the next lane, put a sticker on it, hook up your controller, and be ready to race.
4. You are allowed to impound 2 cars for the night of the race. These will be the only 2 cars you can race this night. You can race either car but you can only change them out in-between the heats or before or after a race. If a car breaks during a race, the clock will not be stopped but you can replace the broken car with your other impounded car. After the race or in-between the heats you may work on the broken car to fix it. After it is fixed, it will have to be impounded again and be inspected by a tech inspector.
5. Your car has to have a clearance of .040” or more from the lowest part of your car to the track.
6. The guide flag has to fit under the body.
7. Only slot.it manufactured bodies are allowed. The only exception is if you are using a HRS chassis. Then it has to be a 1/32 scale body, no lexan bodies allowed, and a LeMans style body. Any type of mounting of the HRS chassis to the body is allowed.
8. Only slot.it manufacturer wheel parts are allowed. You cannot alter the wheels by turning them down in size.
9. Any type of tire can be used but it has to fit properly on a slot.it wheel. You cannot cut the tires in any way.
10. You cannot add anything to the tires. These include but are not limited to gluing compounds, nail polish, super glue, etc.
11. All wheels need to fit inside the body.
12. All four wheels will need to be riding/touching on the track and rotate as the car moves on the track.
13. You can fix the front wheels, that come from the manufacturer tight, by removing the post caps or sanding the post caps or post to allow the wheels to rotate freely.
14. You can add front independent wheel rotation but have to use slot.it manufacturer parts for the axle and wheels.
15. You are allowed to use any type of screw in your car.
16. You can remove the wings and mirrors from your car.
17. You can add as much weight as you want inside the car.
18. You can stiffen the chassis by adding material for this effect.
19. Heat sinks are allowed.
20. You can add quick disconnections devices to the motor wires for easier motor replacement.
21. You have to use only slot.it manufactured magnets. They have to fit in established slot.it chassis mounts. You may fill each standard slot.it magnet mount with no more than one slot.it manufactured magnet per mount.
22. No drilling, altering or adding parts to the chassis or bodies is allowed unless mentioned above and with the exception of making the car functional. If someone comes up with a new modification, then the procedure to make it legal would be to introduce it to the group of racers and explain why it was necessary. The group will then make a decision as to it’s legal status.
23. You can add any slot.it manufactured part that slot.it makes and sells. This would include but not be limited to, motors, suspension parts, wheels, magnets, gearing, bushings, and braids.
24. There has to be a full interior with driver. You should not be able to see through the interior to the chassis.
Illegal cars can still race, but their points will not count for that race.
There are 11 races scheduled but we will only be counting 8 for the points. So pick your best 8 to see who wins.
Silicone RTV Adhesive (Permatex 66B):
Time-to-Dry: About 10-15min after application. Overnight for full strength and is recommended to sand and race.
Adhesive strength : Fair, it adheres well enough to do the job at lower voltages. At 15 Volts, likely in a heated race, a car with low profile tires and magnets will surpass the shear limits of this adhesive.
Durability/Longevity: Fair, I am finding that the RTV has a tendency to come loose on particularly forceful turns. If you are driving hard, the tire might come loose and out-of-round, especially if the initial application of the RTV was not complete or it was disturbed before fully cured.
Pros/Cons: Easy to apply, easily removable, easy clean up. Does not harm plastics or rubber / Potential for bunching up under the tire, causing trueness issues, Weaker than the lateral grip of the tires. Likely a temporary measure.
Tire Glue Application Notes : This stuff works fine to glue the urethane tires to the rim. I have found that on low profile tires it is easy to push this adhesive's limits. I do not recommend racing on anything cured for less than overnight. Good to use in a pinch, but not as reliable in the thick of things as other adhesives.
CA (Crazy) Glue:
Time-to-Dry: 1-3sec, 5-15sec , 20-45 sec, The thinner the mix, the quicker the cure time and the tighter the fit must be to make a solid bond.
Adhesive strength: Excellent, it makes a strong bond. The bond is fairly rigid.
Durability/Longevity: Strong. Removable with 'Uncure". The bond is typically stronger than the material. The cured glue is fairly brittle, I There is product called IC2000 (Tire Glue) which is a rubberized CA glue which is fairly pliable when cured. The bond is as strong as typical CA glue and more ductile.
Pros/Cons: Quick Cure, ready to race in a minute. Stronger than the lateral grip of the tires. Little needed, / You can glue your fingers together, CA can harm plastics and Uncure dissolves paint and decals, You can not salvage tires, once removed, the CA damages the rubber and the rubber will likely rip . Tricky to apply on tires.
Tire Glue Application Notes: The few times I tried to use this stuff has lead to stuck fingers and poor results. I am sure that I am going about it wrong, because others have had good success. I have not been able to get thru tire on properly before the glue cured. I chewed up several tires and had a hell of a time salvaging the hubs. Any input is appreciated.
Walhers Goo, Goop, Rubber contact cements:
Time-to-Dry : About 5-10 min after application. Overnight for full strength but is optional, you can race in 10-15 min.
Adhesive strength: Excellent, Stronger than the lateral grip of the tires.
Durability/Longevity: Strong and durable. Somewhat pliable.
Pros/Cons: Made for rubber, Flexible, Removable, Stronger than the lateral grip of the tires, er / More difficult to remove, Dries quickly, Easily bunches causing trueness issues,
Tire Glue Application Notes: In my experience, this stuff is the best glue to secure the tires .. Below is the method I use...Its kind of messy...
Everything ready to go:
This works with Silicone RTV or Walthers Goo
Apply Glue:
1) Turn the tire completely inside out
2) Check for any blisters,"flash" or stray rubber pimples that will not let the tire sit true.
3) Place a blob of glue in the hub groove.
Apply Glue:
Finally:
1) Turn the tire right-side-in.
2) Install tire, taking care to detect and correct ant irregularities before the glue sets.
3) WASH HANDS
4) Sand True
5) Race